From his early training under renowned chefs such as Jacques Maximin, Michel Sarran, Jean-Louis Nomicos, and Alain Dutournier, to leading culinary teams under the leadership of Gordon Ramsay in London and Daniel Boulud in New York at the most iconic establishments, Ronan has honed his craft with precision, passion, and an unwavering commitment to excellence.
His journey, which has taken him from Paris to Florence, Moscow to Doha, Tokyo to Hong Kong, and now Casablanca in Morocco, continues to push the boundaries of haute cuisine.
Throughout his career, Ronan's dedication to sustainability, innovation, and the art of gastronomy has left a lasting impact on the culinary world.
Could you introduce yourself and outline the key points of your professional background?
Originally from Brittany, I began my culinary training at the Louis-Antoine de Bougainville School in Nantes and obtained my Management Professional Certificate after two years of study in 2001.
As soon as I graduated, I went to the South of France in Vence to learn cuisine from one of the greatest chefs, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, Jacques Maximin. I also spent time with the Pourcel brothers at La Compagnie des Comptoirs in Montpellier, before heading to Paris, where I pursued my studies at Lasserre restaurant, a Parisian institution founded by René Lasserre in 1942. André Malraux, Audrey Hepburn, among others, were patrons of Lasserre.
I then traveled to Italy, to Florence, where I worked at the Relais & Châteaux 3-star Michelin Enoteca Pinchiorri, owned by Annie Féolde and Giorgio Pinchiorri. Annie Féolde was the first Chef outside France to be awarded three stars for her restaurant.
This was followed by two consecutive experiences with two great chefs from the South-West of France: Alain Dutournier at Trou Gascon, awarded 1 Michelin star in Paris, and Michel SARRAN, awarded 2 Michelin stars in Toulouse. But my thirst for discovering America took me across the Atlantic to New York, where I worked for Daniel Boulud, multi-award-winning Chef, owner and co-owner of about fifteen restaurants in New York, including the restaurant Daniel and a bespoke luxury catering company, Feast & Fêtes, co-owned with Jean-Christophe Le Picart, which introduced me to the elite of Manhattan's businessmen and politicians. I created exceptional memories and acquired limitless experiences that continue to inspire me.
Back in Europe, I met Gordon Ramsay and his right-hand man Simone Zanoni, who ran Gordon Ramsay's 3 Michelin star restaurant as Chef de Cuisine in London before returning to France, in Paris, to work at the Trianon Palace in Versailles.
These years spent alongside the greatest chefs have provided a foundation of knowledge that enriches me to this day. Following this, I had several experiences in Qatar at the Crown Prince Palace, in Moscow launching a concept restaurant at the Tsvetnoy Market under the leadership of the renowned group Ginza Project, before returning to France for a successful entrepreneurial project as Ex-Chef and Director of a trendy restaurant in Nantes alongside the renowned restaurateur, unfortunately deceased, Thierry Bégué, the originator of the Buddha Bar and Barrio Latino in Paris, among others.
I then joined the hotel industry in 2015 and was appointed Executive Chef of the Hyatt Regency Casablanca (5 stars) in Morocco, which led me in 2018 to head the renowned flagship Park Hyatt Tokyo in Japan, owned by Tokyo Gas, from 2018 until 2022. The Park Hyatt Tokyo hotel and the New York Grill restaurant & Bar on the 52nd floor was the main setting of the Sofia Coppola film Lost in Translation.
Then I moved to Hong Kong in December 2022, where I took over the Regent pre-opening and opening as Executive Chef, managing up to 170 chefs. The Regent Hong Kong is a five-star hotel located at 18 Salisbury Road, in Kowloon. The hotel is positioned directly on the waterfront, offering outstanding views of Victoria Harbor. The hotel has 497 rooms and 129 suites and is the flagship property of the IHG group.
You were recently appointed Executive Chef at Royal Mansour Casablanca. What attracted you to this position, and what do you hope to achieve through this new adventure?
Indeed, I am proud and honored to be part of the Royal Mansour family.
What attracts me the most is the level of requirement and expectation at the Royal Mansour Collection, as well as the pride of working alongside multi-starred chefs such as Chef Eric Frechon MOF, Chef Massimiliano Alajmo, Chef Quique Dacosta, Chef Hélène Darroze, and others.
Honestly, the biggest challenge was that we could not afford to fail, and we had to be aligned with the quality of service and food known at the Royal Mansour in Marrakech, as well as, more recently, the Royal Mansour of Tamuda Bay in the North of Morocco. When I arrived in March 2023 from Hong Kong, I felt increased pressure, a duty to live up to the mission, and the privilege of the trust that had been placed in me.
The history of this palace is so unique. It was inaugurated in 1953, more than 71 years ago. The memories are in each room; some of the guests are among the greatest in this world who have made history, such as Mohammed Ali, the heavyweight boxer, Charles Aznavour, and Yves Montand, respectively a singer and an actor, among many others who have stayed in this hotel. Royalty, politicians, and figures of nobility met there when gastronomy was at its peak. French cuisine chefs were already working at El Mansour Casablanca at that time, performing alongside the greatest Moroccan chefs.
These are some of the reasons that motivated me to return to Morocco. Also, I am a man of challenges, and I could not decline this invitation to revive this legendary hotel.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank Mr. Jean-Claude Messant, General Manager of Royal Mansour Collection, as well as Laurent Roussin, General Manager of Royal Mansour Casablanca, for their trust.
You have gained extensive and varied experience in several Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. How have these experiences shaped your culinary approach and style as a chef?
The experience gained in several Michelin-starred restaurants around the world has shaped my culinary approach, my sensitivity and my values as a chef.
Our profession and the well-known demands of the world of Michelin-starred restaurants have taught me rigor, discipline and consistency. I have acquired these values through my determination, from my beginnings as a young chef until today. Now, I lead brigades of chefs comprising more than 150 individuals, manage several restaurants, including those with Michelin-starred and consulting chefs.
My life and my apprenticeship have defined me as a person attentive to the smallest details, demanding of myself and it goes without saying of my Teams. To achieve your dreams, you must show discipline and consistency because without commitment you never start, and without consistency you will never succeed.
We work for an elite clientele who only visit the most beautiful palaces and dine in the best restaurants in the world. This requirement has no limits, and I strive to achieve perfection to improve myself day after day and thus provide the best quality of products and services to our customers with care.
What are the main culinary influences you have incorporated from your collaborations with renowned chefs such as Jean-Louis Nomicos, Annie Féolde, Alain Dutournier, Daniel Boulud, and Gordon Ramsay?
From my collaboration with Jean-Louis Nomicos, I remember his attention to detail and his delicate presentation. The classic Fine Gratin of Macaroni with Foie Gras and Truffled Celery and its Veal Jus revisited according to the recipe of René Lassere of Chef Nomicos remains in my memory. The seasoning, the coloring of the Béchamel, the timing of the presentation and of course the selection of ingredients are the image of a charismatic, precise and infinitely creative chef. I learned a lot at his side, especially during the selection of Caviar when Petrossian came to present each box bringing together the same Sturgeon. It was like a play, just like the service, without a sound, with a lot of mastery.
I would also like to pay tribute to Annie Féolde of Enoteca Pinchiorri, I admire this legendary house, one of the largest wine cellars in the world. My collaboration with chefs Italo Bassi and Ricardo Monco remains etched in my memory. Italian products, the charm of Tuscany and its perfumes are etched in my memory. I remember the arrival of the White Truffles from Alba, their selection in the kitchen and the scents that filled all the rooms of the restaurant up to the cellar when they arrived from the mountains of Alba in Piedmont. Also, we served the kitchen staff at lunchtime and in the evening before the service; the starter was always based on fresh pasta, the main course could be farm poultry, and the fish of the day was of impeccable freshness. For birthdays, a cake and champagne were kindly offered by Annie Féolde and Giorgio Pinchiorri. These values are extremely important, we must take care of our team, we care for people, so they can be their best. I remember a house where we were no longer employees but a family. I also remember the visit of Chefs Pierre Gagnaire and Gualtiero Marchesi among others, always a pleasure to welcome them. I have also in mind a table of four Americans who had spent more than 400,000 euros of wine and cognac served with the tasting menu, incredible…!
I remember Alain Dutournier as if it were yesterday. I worked at Trou Gascon, in the 12th arrondissement of Paris, at 40 rue Taine. We were offering authentic cuisine from the South-West of France, and I was supervising the meat section, including the preparation of Cassoulet, Foie Gras Terrines and other classic dishes. I sometimes spent afternoons plucking wood pigeons, cleaning the Duck and Goose lobes, making sausage using an old-fashioned pusher... I also remember with great emotion serving Cassoulet for the Chef and Chef Guy Savoy every Fridays. Leaving Trou Gascon with a heavy heart and a very nice letter of reference from the chef himself, I continued my journey to Michel SARRAN's kitchens in Toulouse with the intention of continuing my journey alongside the greatest.
The following episode alongside Daniel Boulud remains one of my most memorable experiences in Cuisine. Discovering New York and Manhattan as a young French Chef… it was such an incredible adventure. I was in my early twenties at the time, and I was fortunate to get there. I worked at Daniel's Restaurant on 65th Street between Madison and Park on the Upper East Side where I felt right at home immediately, like a second family, thanks to Daniel…
I chose to work at Feast & Fêtes, Daniel's catering company, where he was already associated with Jean-Christophe Le Picart, Co-Founder of Tentation by Potel & Chabot and its co-President. We went to all the star-studded houses in the Hamptons, and I met politicians like President Obama and Bill Clinton, even President Sarkozy. Every day was different, filled with countless memories. The most memorable time was developing menus for Roger Yasseen, a wealthy diamond merchant and food lover. He was used to organize private dinners, and I had the privilege of overseeing a few of them. He had crystal menus made with the names of the guests, the dishes, the best wines, and the name of the chef engraved on them. It was obviously essential not to make a mistake and to delight the guests. The dinner was presented like a play theater, with the kitchen opening for each dish presentation. Florence Fabricant, a famous food critic from the New York Times was present that evening. She loved the carefully prepared dinner named: "A Harvest Touch of Toulouse", which included a Venison Pie and an Eel Matelote cooked in Red Wine Sauce. This dish particularly moved her so much that she wrote an article highlighting it. I was surprised when the article was published. I had not wanted to overshadow Chef Daniel of course at that time, but it seems he reproached me a bit for this episode. Nonetheless, we have always remained on good terms. This period of my career is unforgettable.
When I left New York, my wish was to return to Europe. I wanted to discover London, so I moved there and worked at Gordon Ramsay's 3 Michelin-starred restaurant on Royal Hospital Road. I visited several kitchens of the Gordon Ramsay group, including Maze, Claridge's, and Pétrus, to get an idea of his cuisine. I then went to the Trianon Palace in Versailles to assist the arrival of Chef Gordon Ramsay, who won 2 Michelin stars in his first year. It was a great adventure and my first experience with an opening.
What are the most exciting aspects of pre-opening and launching a new establishment, as you did in Hong Kong and now in Casablanca?
The most exciting aspects of the pre-opening and launch of a new establishment are numerous. As I experienced at the Regent Hong Kong and now at the Royal Mansour Casablanca, the objectives are different, rich and diverse but beyond that it is a race against time to achieve the impossible.
This includes recruiting the teams, up to 170 chefs, identifying the management, writing the menus, identifying the suppliers and then the products that will be served on the menus and carrying out culinary training. It is necessary to ensure compliance with safety and hygiene standards, without forgetting to select dishes in accordance with the food and wines. Upstream, it is necessary to ensure the proper preparation and organization of the kitchens, to carry out tastings with the management and the owners. Then comes the financial part where the price will be set after studying the market. This is a project that will occupy your vacation time, your days off, you will be away from your family for a while because you only live for one goal, to succeed in the opening. That is why they select you, because they know that you have the faith, the will and the energy to achieve it.
The most interesting aspect for me remains meeting future collaborators and identifying the talents who will shine tomorrow.
Nothing is perhaps more rewarding than giving a future to a young person, training them, or even giving a professional the springboard that will change their career. I also really appreciate the work of researching local products and meeting suppliers. This step is essential to stand out from the competition.
How would you describe your approach to menu creation?
I am inspired by local culture and products, and I am attentive to all Corporate Social Responsibility aspects that concern us all. It is about integrating environmental and social issues into decision-making, a priority in the era of global warming.
With my team and the chefs around me, I create the menus. I am inspired by seasonal products, the local suppliers that all together strive to meet our customers' expectations as closely as possible.
Knowledge of the products is essential; collaboration with producers and breeders is therefore crucial to source the best products. Quality is fundamental while the cuisine can only be good if the products are grown sustainably and with equity.
What is your vision for Royal Mansour Casablanca, and how do you plan to make your culinary mark there?
In line with my vision for the Royal Mansour Casablanca and the culinary legacy I wish to leave, based on my past experiences, it is essential that we focus on sustainability and social development.
I am a passionate protector of the oceans and aspire to promote respect for biodiversity, ecosystems and sustainability. Our role is to offer the best food quality to our guests, but it is also our duty to educate—by specifying the origin of our ingredients on our menus, respecting seasonality, and taking concrete measures against food waste.
At the Park Hyatt Tokyo in Japan, as Executive Chef, I was recognized by WWF for my efforts to source MSC and ASC certified sustainable fish. In 2022, after four years of work and implementation of the Chain of Custody, we were sourcing more than 50% sustainable fish and more than 40% certified fish.
This is the work that I intend to continue, beyond my vision of excellence. Indeed, the Royal Mansour Casablanca is striving this vision of excellence by bringing ecological, social and societal awareness.
Finally, it is also our responsibility to actively support our communities, especially the most deprived by carrying out impactful actions.
Can you tell us about a particular dish or culinary experience you have created that is especially meaningful to you?
At the Sushi Bar, I brought a Japanese team with me. Having spent 4 years in Japan, I was able to contribute my knowledge of the products, my sensitivity, and my respect for this culture.
In the continuity of our sustainable approach which highlights the use of local products, I do not only supply fish from Japan but also live trout from the Moroccan Atlas.
From our collaboration with Les Domaines Agricoles and its aquaculture site near Ifrane in Azrou, we transport the live fish by road in artificially oxygenated containers to the Royal Mansour Casablanca. We then use the ancestral IKEJIME method, which I practiced during my stay in Japan several times in Kyushu to kill the fish avoiding any suffering and preserving the quality of its flesh, its texture and its taste. We then mature the meat to use it in our sushi, nigiris and makis. I invite you to discover this unique place that will take you on a journey to Japan.
What advice would you give to a young professional aspiring to build a career in the culinary field?
The advice I would give to a young professional aspiring to a career in the culinary field is straightforward and simple.
You must be passionate; above all, you cannot work 15 to 20 hours a day, six days a week or more, without loving it. Forget the glitter and TV shows that distort our and your reality. Our job is a behind-the-scenes role; we do it primarily to please and satisfy our guests.
You will need to be patient and never lose sight of your objectives.
But remind yourselves, to achieve your dreams, you must show discipline and consistency because without commitment you never start, but without consistency you will never succeed.
Keep also in mind that the most beautiful projects are still human projects. Alone, we go faster, but together, we go further. This African proverb highlights the importance of collective intelligence, which is crucial in the kitchen. I would not have been able to successfully complete the projects undertaken to date, namely the successive openings of the Regent Hong Kong and Le Royal Mansour Casablanca, without my Teams.
In the end, you should never give up.
And please, always have faith in yourself…
On a more personal note, if you were…
A Product and/or a dish: I would be like caviar eggs Beluga, matured and lightly salted, accompanied by Yubari King Melon served on ice. It was one of my amenities’ creations at Park Hyatt Tokyo.
A Vacation Destination: If I were a destination, I would be Amorgos in Greece, an island in the Cyclades scattered in the middle of the Aegean Sea, it carries within it the promise of a white and blue exile.
A Bedside Book: A biography telling the story of Enzo Ferrari, one of my passions: beautiful cars...
A Scent/Perfume: I would say peppery amber, with character and animal notes, where we perceive fine scents of oriental spices.
